you can easily repack the bearing cavity by using a vetrinary syring and nylon vent hose slipped over the hypo end. A buddy of mine nicked his seal when some clutch disks shattered tearing the seal. Watch the 2-stroke series here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_Ch6T16o4I\u0026list=PLAtBOuPaEyt_pO6zS6U7Rpjk-uCEYZZ8OThank you for watching. Do NOT mark the crank up. I just did my bearings/seal today. This is not recommended for shared computers, Back to REV-XP / XS Chassis - Performance Trail 120-129 Inch Models, Community Forum Software by IP.Board 3.4.8. Is there a youtube on this? Our lab training today is on tips for removing seals still on a shaft. Thank you for the info...how do you clean out the old grease? I don't think I've ever seen white grease in a bearing of an engine that has been run. Another clue to PTO Isoflex consumption through main bearing seal is a light yellow haze on the spark plug & piston crown. This way if you put in too much grease it will be able to leak out into the tubing instead of busting out of your brand new crank seal. Since my 2007 CR250R has been down while I waited for a new stator I decided to replace the crank seals. That surface touches against to smooth bottom of bearing #11 and makes a seal. For an unrelated issue I pulled the jugs off to rehone the cylinders only to find that my ring gaps were 4 thou and 8 thou. This is why a manual would help. As for splitting the cases, warm the whole case up before heating around each bearing. Next I placed 2 more screws at 12 and 6. Jump to Latest Follow ... the case won't split without taking it off. This is my Leaf blower – StihlSH 86 C . Use a plastic dead blow hammer to tap the crank out of the case. #6 On my 78 400 there is a lip that the outer sleave rests on so even when the cases are seperated there is no way to get a tool on the outer sleave. It has a slight lip that makes driving it in nearly impossible. the cases will slide apart with the crank staying with the clutch side half. This gives you access to replace shift forks, gears, and bearings. but i thought you could replace the seal without splitting cases. I have a manual, but it talks about seal installation in the section on engine teardown. The silicone will both lube it to help it slide in and then help seal and hold it in place. and can i do it without having the stihl puller? Pull on the screw to remove the seal. - posted in REV-XP / XS Chassis - Performance Trail 120-129 Inch Models: I have recently purchase an 08 mxz 800 and after reading about many crankseals and isoflex "edit for bad language" out I would like to change mine before detonation. I am not trying to be a smart *** here, but re-assembly is just the reverse of dis-assembly. ive got the crank case split and all new bearings and seals (went with all balls) The cylinder is 20 over with a new wysco piston and rings and all new top end gaskets. If so, I've not been able to find it. I pulled on them in rotation with no movement. Tool Links: https://www.amazon.com/shop/shaneconleyhow2wrench?ref=ac_inf_hm_vp If I can ever be of service to you, here is a video explains how to connect with me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjvmB01ebcs Keep Wrenching,Shane ConleyInstructor/Motivator/MotorcyclistBelow are some links that help support me and my work. There is a second bearing right next to it with a seal you don't want to blow out. Crank seal replacement, behind the flywheel on a Stihl 2 stroke : How difficult is it…? ETZ crank seal replacement without splitting cases. BTW. I have recently purchase an 08 mxz 800 and after reading about many crankseals and isoflex "edit for bad language" out I would like to change mine before detonation. I don't think your gonna find a better deal ! does anyone know if you can change these crank seals without splitting the cases? And im assuming you cant change the second seal? how to replace crankshaft seal. 92 8. I dont have the puller/installer tool. is the bearing buddy worth it? Search it. If you suspect a seal failure on the PTO side, it's best to have a pressure decay test performed to assure crankcase seal integrity. It didn't budge. I have read quite a few forums where people replace the more problematic clutch side seal and grease without splitting the cases. How to replace an oil seal with the shaft still in the case. I drilled pilot holes and turned in the screws. I purchase the 500 gram grease gun tubes of Isoflex NB52 and use a designated grease gun with a farm impliment needle. After I had "injected" the grease in I took my finger and smeared some more in until it wasn't being "absorbed" in any more. Does that sound like a crank seal? by Cerberus73 » Wed Apr 08, 2015 11:54 pm . Really don't wanna put a short block in this after the first ride.Just seeing if anyone has done this or knows more about the problem. If the pulse line hooks up to that crankcase, your fuel pump probably isn't working, hence the reason why it won't run. This is what my bearing looked like 1k after a total rebuild. Is it possible to replace a crank seal (Clutch side) without splitting the cases? Its always some shade of grey. The grease will be mildly gray due to normal metal staining. Best way to prevent a bearing failure is to make sure its always greased properly and excess pressure doesnt build up and blow back into the crank. The clutch side crank seal is leaking and I need to replace it. 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